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©2007-2009 *AJGlass
:iconajglass:

Artist's Comments

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Title: Striking Spheres
Artist: AJGlass
Image created by: AJGlass using an Epson Perfection 1200U scanner and PhotoShop.
Medium: Glass
Type: Soft Glass, 104 Coefficient of Expansion (Moretti/Effetre, Vetrofond, Lausha)
Description: Glass Bead

Details: The dime provided is for scale of the smaller bead image. The smaller bead image is the opposite side of the same bead. Clear glass and transparent Striking Yellow glass (seen in rod form in the top image) were used to create this bead which has been annealed in a kiln. This bead took 30 minutes to make and 18 hours to anneal. No image color correction was necessary.

Discussion: A striking glass is one that will change color when heated (or struck) in the torch flame. The top image is of a rod of transparent Striking Yellow glass. The end of the rod has been exposed to the torch flame and held at the approximate annealing temperature of the glass for a short period of time. The result is that the end of the rod has changed in color from light yellow to intense yellow. Variations in color and intensity can be achieved by varying the temperature of the glass and the length of time the glass is heated.

According to James E. Kerwin, author of More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Glass Beadmaking, metallic oxides can be dissolved uniformly into molten glass just like sugar dissolves in water. They actually become part of the solution and will not settle out again. When the molten glass is cooled and allowed to solidify, the oxides remain dissolved in the solid glass phase. Each metallic oxide atom will absorb some light of characteristic wavelength and let the rest pass on by. The result is color. The striking affect in glass is caused by changes in the oxidative state of the metallic oxide colorants.*

Further discussion about glass (including types, properties, and chemical makeup) can be found in my scraps by clicking here.

Creation: To create the bone shape, a rod of clear glass was melted onto a bead-release-coated mandrel and formed into a round bead. The round bead was then rolled on a graphite marver to achieve a cylindrical shape. Then the mandrel holding the newly formed cylinder was turned on a 90 degree angle in the torch flame and half of the cylinder was melted and allowed to slowly flow down the mandrel’s length. The now-bone-shaped cylinder end was then allowed to stiffen.

The mandrel holding the cylinder was then turned 180 degrees and the other half of the cylinder was melted and allowed to slowly creep down the mandrel’s length in the opposite direction from the other end. The now completed bone-shaped bead was then allowed to stiffen once more.

Finally, while the bone was still hot, molten transparent Striking Yellow glass spheres were carefully dropped onto it. The spheres were allowed to stiffen in the upper portion of the torch flame where they were kept hot until the Striking Yellow glass turned from light yellow to intense yellow. After the spheres had struck in the torch flame, this bead was immediately put into a kiln to be annealed rather than being allowed to cool in vermiculite. This was done to prevent thermal shock because complex long beads are more prone to cracking than simple smaller ones.

Further comment: Getting some colors of glass to strike can be really difficult for me. Colors such as some oranges and red take me a long time to strike in the flame. Sometimes I can’t get them to strike at all. Luckily, yellow is easy for me to strike and the intense color really makes it worth the extra time and effort.

Legal: Copyright © Aaron J. Greenblatt. All rights reserved. Commercial use prohibited. This image and commentary may not be used for any reason without expressed written consent.

*More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Glass Beadmaking. James E. Kerwin. 1999. Published by GlassWear Studios, 1197 Sherry Way, Livermore, CA 94550 – An excellent resource on all things concerning glass beadmaking.

Please click here for more images of my glass work.

Please click here for images of my studio.

Critiques


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Comments


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:iconailime:
wow ... brilliant art !!

--
:bulletblack: If a vagina is art, so is a penis too.
:bulletblack: If a woman's ass hole is art, so is a man's ass hole too.
:bulletblack: If a woman's breasts is art, so is a man's chest too.
:bulletblack: If tied up women is art, so are tied up men too.
:iconimmortalecstasydream:
Ooo, that's quite pretty. Excellent job!

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Everything is ruined forever.
:iconitsjustart:
This is very interesting.
I like it a lot.
Especially the bubbles inside.

--
If love is real, im fake.
:icongatta-demonia:
That's really awesome! :clap:

--
Execute the specific action you're curiously going out of your way to so strongly imply that you'll verily do, you homosexual.

Faith in Humanity: -9001
:iconfroggynaan:
I really wish i could use striking colors more effectively. I have a nice transparent orange that I can't use for dots because it has that clear/amber core. When ever I make a dot, the clear comes to the tip of the rod. I can do bases and wraps with it, but not nice dots like this. How do you make sure you get color in each dot?

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Macro photography is where it's at! ~macrophoto
:iconajglass:
How do you make sure you get color in each dot?

I make the dots (which are a light yellow) and then strike the glass in the flame once the construction of the piece is finished. The last thing I do is strike the glass - which involves holding the piece higher up in the flame where it stays hot but doesn't melt. After a few minutes the color strikes for me.

You're using an orange. I've had mixed results with oranges. Some of them strike really well and others are really difficult to get to strike. One batch of striking orange glass that I worked with wouldn't even strike - period. It was just a bad batch apparently.

Try striking your orange dots as the last thing you do to your piece. If they still won't strike well after you've held the piece for a few minutes in the upper portion of your torch flame, then it may just be a bad rod for that sort of use. Try using a different striking orange from a different batch of glass and see if you get better results. I suggest you also try your hand with a striking yellow color, they're usually easier to work with.

--
glass images
glass studio images
photography images
:iconsomberupheaval:
Fantastic!

--
"Maybe it meant something. Maybe not, in the long run, but no explanation, no mix of words or music or memories can touch that sense of knowing that you were there and alive in that corner of time and the world. Whatever it meant."
:iconfroggynaan:
I didn't think you could choose when to strike the color... It seems to have struck once it's gotten hot enough to work with. Is that normal?

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Macro photography is where it's at! ~macrophoto
:iconajglass:
Yes, the color will change as soon as you heat up the glass.

However, most colors can be struck and unstruck via application and removal of heat over time.

--
glass images
glass studio images
photography images

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November 28, 2007
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